TR Cutting

TR are acronym for Transformation Reconstruction techniques developed by Japanese sensei, Shingo Sato. This technique require you to cut fabric directly on top of the mannequin. Personally I have learned this technique in my previous college but learning it twice does not hurt right ?

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Shingo Sato [digital image]. Retrieved from blog.oodonna.it

First we traced a front basic bodice and sew the dart up. We are going to try 3D dart manipulation. This techniques require you to touch the bust and waist dart point so that the fabric will lay flat after you cut the desired style line. I have drawn a puzzle piece as my new style line because TR cutting reminds me of puzzle, because you need to piece up the fabric that you just cut into a bodice again.

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Puzzle piece I draw for 3D dart manipulation.

After you have drawn the new line, cut out the pieces and add seam allowance to the sides that you cut.

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The bodice become flat and the darts line are gone.

Sewing the curved line of the puzzle piece almost stressed me out. It made me realize that I am not skilled enough to handle curved style lines.

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Next we are to try to eliminate the side seam from the bodice. So for this one, I was challenging myself to sew more curved lines. Arzelle has given us a tips to cut a 0.5 cm notches when sewing curve line so the fabric can fit to each other.

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The curved line are inspired by dripping paint.
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It still a bit messy but I did it !

Third experiment are to eliminate the armhole seams by joining the bodice piece and sleeve together. After drawing the first line, some part of the sleeve haven’t fully flat so Arzelle told me to ad few more lines to cut. This made me learn to be more spontaneous and try to take risk to be able to improve myself.

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Weird looking pattern pieces.
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Final look of the 3rd experiment.

I think there some part can be improved like making the style line to be more smooth. Because as you seen the back side, the style line look awkward and not connected very well.

Next we are to free to try any technique that might be applicable for our collection. I experimented a technique name “Crater bodice” from Pattern Magic – Tomoko Nakamichi. This technique create a 3D structure to create more depth to the bodice.

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Final look

TR Cutting technique is interesting as you learn how to be work by just using basic silhouette garments and a pair of scissor.

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